Cruz de Alba 2007

Just the Mention of Ribera del Duero sparks images of Spain’s most regarded productions, Vega-Sicila, Dominio de Pingus, Tinto Pesquera and Bodegas Alion. At times the soaring prices and legendary status of these namesakes can be scary, and often dissuade consumers from further exploration of this particular DO (Denominacion de Origen). Much as the mortgage worthy pricing of the great growths of Bordeaux has sidelined more moderately priced offerings (at least in this market).  However, when you open your mind and take certain chances, doors open and majesty can appear in forms not before considered possible. I had one of these moments the other evening. To date my experience with Ribera has been a mixed bag of superior examples and some oak laden but quaffable bottles, the first usually falling outside what I consider the reasonable range for a “drinking wine” (less than $30 retail) and the latter falling short on depth but still possessing some age worthy characteristics, but I am hard pressed to believe that the majority of consumers are cellaring cases of $14 Ribera?

To my delight the other day I was presented an opportunity to taste the Cruz de Alba, Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2007 (about $25) a shining example of regional typicity and a true varietal expression of Tinto Fino (the major grape of the Ribera, colloquially known as Tempranillo). As per regional standard and requirement this crianza is aged for a minimum of 2 years, of which 14 months is spent in oak casks split between American and French wood, and the final 10 months resting inside the bottle.    

Notes:

            The nose is ever present on this wine, literally jumping from the glass and offering sweet vanilla, dark berries, and very light hints of burnt wood, followed by a soft scent of anise and herbs. The juice follows through and provides a mouth filling richness showing and integrated tannin and a surprise of fresh acidity in the middle, the wood doesn’t show until the very finish but is supported by a unique back ended fruit presence that screams for leaner meat cuts and more earthier style foods